From heel to toe: How the iconic New Balance 990 is made

Before a New Balance 990 is formed into a complete sneaker, it begins its life as two-dimensional sheets of leather and fabric that get passed from one shoemaker to the next. From the patterns of the upper to the chunkiness of the sole, the 990s are recognizable even before the gray “N” logo is stitched on.

While the look of the shoe has evolved since its inception in 1982, the craftsmanship has remained the same.

Yahoo Finance gets a behind-the-scenes look at New Balance’s 115-year-old factory in Lawrence, Massachusetts, where 29 shoemakers stitch and design the 990v6.

The shoemaking process is divided into five departments: cut, pre-fit, computer stitch, hand stitch, and assembly. In each of the 50 to 60 steps, precision is crucial, with quality checks throughout the process. The end result: an iconic shoe that is literally pieced together from start to finish in the US.

Watch the video above to learn how the 990v6 is made.

Video Transcript

BRAD SMITH: The New Balance 990 is the ultimate dad shoe, and it remains one of the brand's most iconic designs. Here in Lawrence, Massachusetts. We're getting an inside look at how the 990v6 is made in 22-second handoffs between machine time and handcrafting.

Shoemakers at this New Balance factory call their process the value stream operation, which consists of five departments. The first being the cutting or the coating station. Synthetic and leather materials are cut into pieces for different parts of the shoe. The widths and shoe sizes are based on customer orders.

Next is the pre-fit department, which is broken down into subassemblies, where the saddles and [INAUDIBLE] are added to the material. The pieces are then computer-stitched together attaching the New Balance logo and model label. With the upper part of the shoe almost done, the next step is to create a three-dimensional form. The intricacy of this stitching requires the guidance of a shoemaker's hand.

Once the shoe is given its 3D form, it's ready for assembly. The shoe is pulled on a last, giving its shape. The upper and sole are then joined in a flash activator. From there, they are placed in a press machine that marries the two parts together. The last and final step is to inspect the shoes for any imperfections. The 990s are boxed and ready for shipment.