Advertisement

NEWPORT FOOD SCENE: Don't leave side dishes on the side at these Newport area restaurants

Next time you sit down to dinner at your favorite restaurant and you're looking over the menu, take your time and don’t skip over the most overlooked section.

It’s usually boxed off in the margins or squeezed onto the bottom of the page, where it goes unnoticed. But it’s there, all alone. Even its name is plain and unassuming: Sides.

Yep, side dishes. It’s time we gave sides the center stage.

Dan Lederer
Dan Lederer

More: What were Newport restaurants serving up in 2021? Check out the most popular menu items

Obviously entrees and appetizers are considered the typical stars of any menu. That’s where you find the dishes that live in the limelight. Entrees and appetizers have photos posted of them on Instagram. They are boasted about in conversations amongst friends. They are the Lebron James of the menu. The Meryl Streep. The stars of the show.

ADVERTISEMENT

But that doesn’t mean there isn't room for appreciating the other items found on a menu, especially the sides. A good side dish can really make a meal. It can complement the entree and make it better, or it can stand on its own as a simply enjoyable addition. They deserve your attention and selection.

Newport Food Scene: Raise a glass for Yordi Arevalo, another restaurant worker gone too soon

You’re probably thinking: a side of fries is just a side of fries. No need to get excited about it. First, you’d be wrong. We all know that some French fries simply outshine others. Try the truffle fries at Malt or the hand-cut fries from Mission and you’ll agree.

Second, if you think sides are just French fries, you need to expand your horizons. Sure it’s usually the smallest section on the menu, but that doesn’t mean there’s not thought and love going into the creation of side dishes.

The chefs and menu planners don’t just put things on a menu. They make sure each dish represents their restaurant’s quality and reputation. That means they’ve spent time coming up with sides that will make positive impressions on their guests.

Take, for instance, Zia’s Meatballs on the menu at Sardella’s. These aren’t just meatballs. These are Aunt Josephine’s meatballs. A traditional Sardella family recipe you can order as a side dish to complement any of the main dishes. You’ll be happy with the entree alone, but if a restaurant is featuring a meatball on the side, it would behoove you to add it to your order. Aunt Josephine hasn’t let us down yet.

Timeline: Here are 15 Newport area restaurants that have closed during the COVID pandemic

Not a fan of meatballs? The Creamy Risotto al Parmigiana deserves your attention, too.

If you're dining at The White Horse Tavern, you are of course going to be wowed by some of its star entrees. Will it be Beef Wellington or the Pan Seared Scallops tonight? While both are great choices, don’t let the server leave the table without adding on a side of Soy-Caramel Brussels Sprouts.

Listen, if your 5-year-old-self knew you were excited about ordering Brussels Sprouts, he’d be pretty disappointed in you. But little does he know how awesome Brussels Sprouts can be in the right hands (and in the right soy-caramel preparation). It’s a side you need to try.

Helping hand: O'Brien's Pub has benefited from Newport's Hispanic community. Here's how they're giving back.

Dining at Zelda’s on Thames Street is always a good time. The Steak au Poivre is just what the doctor ordered on a cold March evening. But as long as you are there, better add on a side of Zelda’s Gorgonzola Mac and Cheese because — maybe you didn’t read that correctly — it’s gorgonzola mac and cheese!

Zelda’s Gorgonzola Mac and Cheese
Zelda’s Gorgonzola Mac and Cheese

If you go to The Wharf Southern Kitchen & Whiskey Bar, you’ll be perfectly happy ordering the Creole Shrimp and Grits for dinner. But if you don’t order a side of Pork Belly Corn Salad or Poblano Cornbread Soufflé, you’ll be thinking about what you missed for days.

Newport Food Scene: Making cocktails to-go permanent is a small victory for restaurants

There are so many surprises in the sides section of a menu that you don’t want to miss out. It’s usually simple items like starches or fresh vegetables, but because chefs are gonna chef, each dish is a little secret treasure. The sides have always been on the menus, we just sometimes miss them because we’re too busy deciding what entree to have. We’re missing out on the simplest of guilty pleasures.

Have you tried the Sweet Potato Tots at Gulf Stream Bar & Grille in Portsmouth? How about the Broccoli Hollandaise at Brick Alley Pub? Did you order the side of Chilled Marinated Beets at The Mooring? Did you ask for the Jalapeño Cornbread at Tito’s Cantina? All these tasty morsels just waiting to come to your table alongside your entrees.

When you sit down at the table at your favorite restaurant, there’s a lot to soak in. You have to get comfortable. You have to soak in your surroundings. You have to meet your server. It’s hard to concentrate on reading a menu with so many distractions, least of which is waiting for that first cocktail to come.

But in those moments, relax and take your time to be sure you don’t miss anything on the menu. And whatever you do, don’t overlook the sides. There are treasures in that section that will make your dinner that much better. Let’s give side dishes the credit they deserve.

Maybe we’ll even post them on Instagram.

Dan Lederer is a Middletown resident with 30 years experience in the food service industry throughout New England. He continues to work locally behind the scenes within the industry and remains a devoted fan of all things restaurant and hospitality related. His column appears on newportri.com and Thursdays in The Daily News. Cheers!

This article originally appeared on Newport Daily News: Newport RI restaurants: Don't leave side dishes on the side